Copyright © 2000 NLThomas
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MEXICO - As hundreds of Mayan Indians processed out of the Basilica in two tight lines, an older white woman approached the Tzotzil woman in front of me and gave her five pesos -- "for a soft drink, dear." The woman went on to say how much hope we could all put in the wonderful new president, Vicente Fox. After she left, a Tzeltal man, also Indigenous from Chiapas, turned to me with a grimace on his face and said, "We're not putting our faith in Fox. Our faith is in God."

These two people were among about two hundred and fifty who just completed a two month, 1400 km trek from the war-torn state of Chiapas to Mexico's capital to pray for peace at the national shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and to present their demands to the authorities.

The leaflet of the walkers called for the dismantling of the military and paramilitary forces in their communities, for the return of refugees to their homes, for liberty for political prisoners and for the enactment of a law recognizing the autonomy of Indigenous peoples. They publicly committed to use nonviolent methods including non-cooperation, active resistance and civil disobedience to work for a peaceful transition to democracy, praying especially for a change of heart on the part of authorities so that Native people do not feel compelled to use violent methods of struggle.

For two months their daily cycle stayed the same: rise at 5am; after a roll and a cup of coffee, assemble for opening prayers and the day's journey; walk up to 38 kilometers. Each evening they were welcomed by a local church community where they would eat, tell their stories and then gather in prayer. After a bit of free time to hand-wash laundry, bathe (if there was water) and hang out, they would go to bed.

Teammate Lynn Stoltzfus and I joined with them for the last couple of days of walking, as had other CPTers earlier in the pilgrimage. Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by Ernesto, a young man who lost his mother, his sister, two sisters-in-law and two nieces in the Acteal massacre. They were among the 45 people assembled in prayer who were killed on December 22, 1997 by government trained and armed paramilitary forces, all according to the lesson plans taken directly from the manuals Mexican officers studied at the U.S. Army School of the Americas.

As we walked along the expressway, eating the fumes of some of the millions of vehicles in the central valley of Mexico, we met people from the different regions of Chiapas participating in this pilgrimage. In addition to the Abejas, a group of pacifist Tzotzils from the highlands, we got to know members of Xi'nich and Yomlej, two other pacifist Indigenous groups from other parts of the state. These three organizations collectively have over thirty thousand members, committed to nonviolent struggle for justice, sharing the goals (though not necessarily the means) of the Zapatista National Liberation Army.

These days are being called a time of transition: a new president, a new governor in Chiapas, the Zapatistas expressing openness to the possibility of dialogue. Fox has made some positive steps. The military and immigration roadblocks are down, some troops have been withdrawn, promises have been made to participate in dialogue and to meet the preconditions of the Zapatistas for dialogue.

At the same time Fox is talking about supporting big business in its efforts to set up factories in Chiapas. This is seen by many as the next step in low-intensity warfare: offer horribly paid jobs to people who have been living under military occupation in the countryside for six years to get them off the land. Fox's pet idea of moving Indigenous people from their villages into government created (and controlled) centralized towns has so far been put on hold because of objections within his own cabinet, but it is not a dead idea.

Meanwhile, a young man from the North Zone of Chiapas recounted to me how the Mexican army had delivered guns to paramilitaries 10 km from his house just last month, and how his brother-in-law had been killed last Tuesday by these same paramilitary members. He cried as he recalled how this man had helped him carry firewood to his house the day before the beginning of the pilgrimage.

All night on December 11, the Chiapan pilgrims vigiled in the Guadalupe Basilica, praying that their demands for justice and peace will be heard. On December 12, they fasted in front of the Angel of Independence, situated in the midst of the federal government buildings of Mexico City. On December 13, they again put their cries before God in a final liturgy in the Basilica before boarding buses for the journey back to Chiapas. God willing, their voices will be heard by the powers that be.